Introduction
Fashion in ancient India is a blend of art, culture, tradition, and functionality, reflecting the country’s diverse regions, climates, and cultures. For thousands of years, clothing in India has been more than just a practical necessity; it has been a symbol of social status, religious beliefs, aesthetic values, and cultural heritage. Indian clothing, particularly the saree, dhoti, and various draped garments, has a rich history that predates recorded history, drawing upon thousands of years of civilization, art, and craft.
From the ancient Indus Valley Civilization (circa 3300–1300 BCE) to the majestic kingdoms of Maurya and Gupta Empires, Indian fashion has evolved while maintaining its cultural significance. Even in modern times, the saree, dhoti, and other draped garments continue to hold a place of pride in India’s fashion landscape. This essay explores the origins, cultural meanings, and evolution of some of India’s most iconic garments: the saree, dhoti, and other draped attire, focusing on their role in shaping ancient Indian fashion.
- The Indus Valley Civilization: The Beginnings of Draped Fashion
The Indus Valley Civilization (also known as the Harappan Civilization), which flourished around 3300 to 1300 BCE in what is now Pakistan and northwest India, is often considered one of the world’s earliest urban cultures. Clothing artifacts from this period, including remnants of garments and figurines, give us valuable insight into the early forms of draped attire in India.
Early Draping: The Indus Valley Fashion
From the figurines found in Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa, it is believed that the people of the Indus Valley wore simple, unstitched cloth wrapped around their bodies. The garments were likely made from cotton, which was abundant in the region, or wool and flax. These clothes were draped in a way that made them both functional and comfortable in the hot climate of the region. The draped clothing seen in these figurines resembles the modern-day saree and dhoti, which suggests that the fundamental concepts of draped clothing originated in this early civilization.
The exact style of draping remains speculative, but it’s clear that the practice of wrapping cloth around the body in an elegant, flowing manner was already an essential element of Indian fashion. The Indus Valley civilization set the foundation for the draped fashion we see today in sarees and dhotis.
- The Vedic Period: Spiritual and Cultural Significance
During the Vedic period (approximately 1500–500 BCE), ancient Indian clothing continued to evolve. This period was marked by the rise of Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism, and it was during this time that the earliest references to draped garments can be found in religious texts such as the Rigveda.
Sarees and Dhotis in Vedic Texts
The Vedic texts describe various forms of attire, including the ‘antarvāsaka’ (a cloth wrapped around the body) and the ‘uttarīya’ (a cloth draped over the shoulders or head). These garments are considered the precursors to the modern saree and dhoti. Sarees, which are traditionally unstitched garments of cloth draped around the body, are believed to have been a common form of clothing for women during the Vedic period.
- The ‘antarvāsaka’ was often worn as a loincloth or lower garment, wrapped around the waist, and it closely resembles the modern dhoti worn by men today.
- The ‘uttarīya’ was a cloth draped over the shoulders and head, providing modesty, warmth, and protection, akin to the way the sareepallu (the portion of the saree that is draped over the shoulder) is worn today.
In these ancient times, clothing was not only a matter of practicality but also had profound spiritual significance. For example, the ‘uttarīya’ was associated with dignity and religious purity.
- Maurya and Gupta Periods: Royalty and Fashion
The ancient Indian clothing traditions flourished and became more sophisticated during the reigns of the Maurya (322–185 BCE) and Gupta (circa 320–550 CE) Empires. These periods saw the emergence of more elaborate and structured garments, as well as the development of Indian textile arts, including the weaving of fine fabrics such as muslin and silk.
Clothing of the Royals: Sarees and Drapes in Royal Courts
Both the Mauryan and Gupta periods left an indelible mark on Indian fashion, especially through the representation of royal attire in sculptures and coins. Historical texts such as the Arthashastra by Kautilya and the Kamasutra describe the opulence of court fashion.
- Women in the royal courts wore elaborate draped garments, often with golden embroidery and precious stones. The garments were draped to emphasize elegance and status, and the saree-like garment during this period would have been made from luxurious fabrics such as silk.
- Men’s fashion included dhoti-style garments that were paired with sashes or shawls to signify their higher rank. The dhoti, which was already a part of the Vedic attire, evolved into a more refined garment with pleats and adornments in these periods.
Sculptures from Sanchi, Mathura, and Ajanta depict women in flowing draped garments that resemble the saree worn today. These depictions highlight the emphasis on clothing as a symbol of elegance and status in both urban and royal settings.
- Ancient Textile Traditions: The Fabric of Fashion
The textiles used in ancient Indian fashion were renowned for their fine quality and variety. India was one of the earliest producers of cotton fabrics, and it became famous for its muslins, silks, and other fine cloths. The evolution of textile arts directly influenced the development of Indian fashion.
Cotton and Silk: The Preferred Fabrics
- The Indus Valley people are believed to have used cotton, which was domesticated in the region, for their garments. Cotton fabric, particularly muslin, became one of India’s most famous exports during the Gupta period. The lightness and elegance of muslin would have contributed to the draped nature of garments such as the saree and dhoti.
- The Maurya and Gupta periods also saw the introduction of silk, which was imported from China along the Silk Road. Silk fabrics, often adorned with gold thread or embroidery, were used for the clothing of royalty and the elite.
The use of these fabrics, along with the skilled weaving and dyeing techniques, led to the creation of textiles that were both practical and decorative. Sarees, as well as other draped garments, were designed to show off the craftsmanship of the textile workers, who were highly respected during these periods.
- The Saree: Symbol of Indian Identity and Tradition
The saree, an ancient garment that has remained a symbol of Indian culture and identity, has been worn by women for over 5,000 years. The saree’s timeless appeal lies in its simplicity and elegance, as it consists of a single length of cloth, usually around six to nine yards, which is draped around the body in various styles.
The Evolution of the Saree
The evolution of the saree is deeply intertwined with the history of Indian culture and society. While the concept of draped garments dates back to the Vedic period, the saree as we know it today began to take its modern form around the 12th century CE.
- During the medieval period, the saree became more structured, with specific draping styles evolving in different regions of India. The Nivi drape, which involves pleating the saree and draping it over the shoulder, became the most common and widespread style.
- The saree continued to evolve over time, with changes in fabric and draping techniques influenced by the Mughal and Rajput courts. The Mughal rulers, with their appreciation for fine textiles, contributed to the spread of the silk saree, often decorated with intricate zari (gold or silver thread) work.
Cultural and Religious Significance
The saree is not just a piece of clothing; it holds religious and cultural significance. In Hinduism, the saree represents the goddess Lakshmi, symbolizing prosperity, purity, and fertility. Women often wear sarees during religious ceremonies, weddings, and festivals as an expression of reverence and devotion.
- The Dhoti: Ancient Men’s Wear
The dhoti is an ancient form of clothing for men that has been worn since the Vedic period. It is a rectangular piece of cloth, typically around five to six yards long, that is wrapped around the waist and tied with a knot or fastener.
The Evolution and Significance of the Dhoti
Like the saree, the dhoti has evolved over thousands of years. Early depictions of men wearing a form of the dhoti can be found in Mauryan and Gupta sculptures. Over time, different regions of India developed distinct styles of draping the dhoti.
- The dhoti is often associated with rituals and religious ceremonies, with different styles of folding and pleating having symbolic meanings. It remains a staple in traditional wear for Indian men and is still worn during weddings, religious occasions, and festivals, particularly in Southern India.